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recipes

Kashmiri Cuisine

* Khoobani Kee Chutney
* Akhrot Kee Chutney
* Rogan Josh

Punjabi Cuisine

* Baingan Kaa Bhartaa
* Chole Kee Chaat

Rajasthani Cuisine

* Papad Kee Sabzi
* Aam Kaa Aachaar

Bengali Cuisine

Maharashtrian Cuisine

* Bataata Bhaajee

Gujarati Cuisine

* Bataata Nu Shaak
* Gujarati Kadhi
* Sookhee Simla Mirchi Kee Sabzee

Cuisine of Delhi

* Khilwaan Urad Ki Daal
* Fish Curry

Parsee Cuisine

Jewish Cuisine From India

Andhra Cuisine

* Tamaatar Kee Chutney
* Chole Kee Chaat

Tamil Cuisine

* Rassam
* Avial

Cuisine of Karnataka

* Vegetable Kurma
* Porial
* Cucumber Pachadi

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Kashmiri Cuisine
Kashmir is in the north west of India. It is mantled in the venerated Himalayas. When Indians think of beauty, Kashmir is one of the first thoughts. The food in Kashmir is a mixture of Indian, Iranian & middle eastern styles. This fusion gave rise to the traditional "Wazawan" style of cooking which is cooked in a lot of spices. The aroma that arises from the food is highly sensuous and very woody and symbolizes the true essence of Kashmir. The population comprises mainly of Moslems or "Brahmins" or "Kashmiri pundits" who also eat meats but surprisingly do not include onions & garlic in their food. Yogurt is an essential ingredient, used extensively in Kashmiri food. Saffron from Kashmir is a scarce commodity but a prized spice. The descendants of cooks from Samarkhand, the Wazas, are the master chefs of Kashmir. Their ancestors came to India with Timur in the 15th century. The ultimate formal banquet in Kashmir is the royal Wazawan. Composed of thirty-six courses, easily fifteen and thirty can be preparations of meat, cooked overnight by the master chef, Vasta Waza, and his assistants. Communal eating is a tradition and upto 4 people share food from one plate called the Trami. Meal begin with a ritual washing of hands in basins called Tash-t-Nari. Then the Tramis arrive, heaped with rice,and laced with the many courses that follow. Condiments (Chutneys and Yogurt) are served separately in earthenware. New Tramis keep coming with new dishes as the meal progresses. To Kashmiri Pundits, eating is a sacred tradition. Some dishes are a must in most any dinner. Rogan Josh, Gushtaaba, Aab Gosht and Rista are a few of them. Most all meals end with Gushtaaba.

Khoobani Kee Chutney (Apricot Chutney)

* 3 cups dried apricots, finely diced
* 1 tsp garam masala
* 1 tsp fennel seeds, toasted
* 1-1/4 cups soft light brown sugar
* 1/8 cup malt vinegar
* 3 tsp ginger, finely chopped
* juice of half a lemon
* zest of one whole lemon
* 1 tsp salt
* 1/2 cup sultanas (golden raisins)
* 2 1/2 cups water

Put all the ingredients into a medium saucepan and mix together thoroughly.

Bring to a boil, turn down the heat to a low simmer and cook for 20-30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

When the chutney has thickened to a fairly stiff consistency, transfer into a jelly jar and cool.

Can be stored in the refrigerator, tightly sealed and kept for several weeks.

Note: You could easily substitute the dried apricots for plums in this recipe.

Akhrot kee Chutney (Walnut Chutney)

* 1 cup shelled and picked walnuts
* 1/2 cup fresh yogurt, whipped until smooth
* 4-5 Kashmiri red chiles
* 1/8 tsp. garam masala
* 1/2 tsp. powdered sugar
* salt to taste

Grind the walnuts and the whole red chiles into a paste in a food processor.

Mix yogurt, garam masala, salt and sugar into the paste and process for another minute.

Chill before serving.

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Kashmiri Rogan Josh (Lamb Cooked Kashmiri style)

* 2 lbs. lamb, cut into 2 inch cubes
* 6 oz. ghee (clarified butter)
* 1 tsp. sonth (ginger powder)
* 1 tbsp. saunf (fennel seeds)
* 2 cinnamon sticks
* 6 garlic cloves, minced finely
* 1 tbsp. kashmiri mirch (kashmiri red pepper powder or cayenne)
* 1 tsp. shahi zeera (black cumin seeds)
* 6 cardamoms
* 6 cloves
* 1 tej patta (bay leaf)
* 1 tsp. zaafraan (saffron), gently toasted and ground
* 1 cup dahee (yogurt)
* 1 tsp heeng (asafoetida)
* salt to taste

Clean, wash and remove all fat from the lamb and set aside.

Grind together all the spices in a mortar and pestle or a coffee grinder.

Soak saffron in the yogurt and set aside.

Heat ghee and add the heeng into it and cook for a few seconds.

Add the lamb to this and sear on all sides, frying until well browned.

Pour the saffron yogurt mix and fry until all liquid is absorbed.

Add a cup and a half of water and the ground spices.

Bring the contents of the pan a boil, reduce heat, and simmer, covered, until tender.

Uncover and cook until excess liquid is evaporated.

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Punjabi Cuisine
Punjab is in the north of India. The food of Punjab is rich in texture & taste. Indian cuisine owes the popularity of Tandoori foods to the people of Punjab. Tandoori chicken as we see today comes from Punjab. The food is usually rather rich and laced in ghee, butter and cream. Like many other regional cuisines, Punjabi food has seen a fusion of its own. Being on the frontier, it saw many invasions and many different people coming in. Each of these people have left their own influence on the people of Punjab and their food. This cuisine has taken the best of all the food styles and combined them to make another great cuisine. This food has become so popular in India that often when people think of Indian food they are talking about Punjabi food. People are drawn to the delicious aromas of these thick luscious gravies and the delicious breads that accompany them. Punjabis live a very full life and to them food is one of the most important ritual. In India it often seems like no one knows how to enjoy life as much as the people of Punjab.

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Rajasthani Cuisine
The grand desert of India. Rajasthan is located in the north. It's people are some of the most majestic ones seen in India. They are known as the descendants of the sun god. The desert has made their lived very different from those of their other countrymen. The life they live is evolved after centuries of surviving the natural calamities known of a desert. Just as they have done with their folk arts and crafts, recipes have been passed down generationally and have only become familiar to others recently. The many wars that have been fought here and the scarce natural resources have played a very important role in shaping the cuisine of this land. The food was prepared to nourish people that were fighting wars and were away from their homes for long periods. The recipes found here are thus able to keep long shelf lives. Also the desert climate has seen the evolution of recipes that call for minimum water. Often one sees the use of yogurt, buttermilk, milk and ghee. The flavors that these people have shared with the rest of the country have taught lesson in seasoning. No matter what the adversities, these people never compromised on taste and flavor. The foods were cooked in accordance to what was available and that scarcity never changed the grandiose lifestyle of its people. They were able to change their adversity into a strength.

Rajasthani Recipes

* Papad Kee Sabzi
* Aam Kaa Aachaar

Papad Kee Sabzi (Papadams In a Gravy, Rajasthaani Style)

* 2-3 medium sized urad daal papads cut into 1 inch squares (Lijjat is a great brand to buy)
* 1 1/2 tbsp. nonfat yogurt
* 2 pinches of asafoetida
* 1 tsp. turmeric powder
* 1/2 tsp. cumin seeds
* 1/2 tsp. mustard seeds
* 1 tsp. chili powder
* 1 1/2 tbsp. ghee
* 1 tbsp. fresh cilantro leaves, chopped finely
* salt to taste
* 1 cup water

Break the papads into 1" squares.

Heat ghee in a saucepan, add the cumin and mustard seeds. Cook until they begin splattering.

Add asafoetida and a few drops of water and cook for a few seconds.

Now throw in the chili powder and quickly thereafter the yogurt. This prevents the chili powder from burning and gives the gravy a nice red color.

Cook until the yogurt turns a nice brown color.

Add the turmeric, water and salt and bring to a boil. The gravy should be thin. Add papads and cilantro leaves.

Boil for 3-4 minutes or until the papads are cooked. They are like pasta. Add more water if needed. Serve hot with rotis or rice.

Alternately, you can also throw in roasted papad after cooking the gravy to the desired consistency and then simply throw in the papads just before serving. They get soggy rather quickly. The traditional way is to cook them in the boiling gravy.

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Aam Kaa Aachaar (Spicy Mango Pickle, Rajasthaani Style)

* 3 medium raw mangoes, chopped into small cubes
* 1/4 tbsp saunf (fennel seeds)
* 1 tbsp. rai daana (mustard seeds), coarsely ground in a mortar and pestle
* 1/2 tbsp. methi daana (fenugreek seeds), coarsely ground in a mortar and pestle
* 1/5 cup turmeric powder
* 1/2 cup laal mirchi (red chili powder)
* 1/2 cup kosher salt
* 1 cup canola
* Pickling jar (sterilized and dried)

Place the mango cubes in the jar and sprinkle the salt and half the turmeric over the mango cubes. Shake the jar vigorously to evenly coat all mango chunks with the salt and turmeric. Seal the jar and place in a sunny and dry spot. Shake every 10 hours for two days. .

On the third day empty the contents of the jar into a non reactive colander and allow the water to drain. It should take no more than a half hour. Spread out on muslin, an old kitchen towel or several layered sheet of paper towels for 2 - 3 hours. Use a fabric that you will not mind having stained by the turmeric.

Mix all the remaining dry ingredients in a non reactive bowl. Add the mangoes to this spice mixture and then pour in half of the canola. Mix the contents well.

Transfer to a clean and sterilized pickling jar and press down lightly. Now pour the remainder of the oil and seal the jar tightly. Keep sealed in a dry and sunny place for 10-12 days. You may shake the contents every few days.

After the 12th day the pickle is ready for use. It tastes better as it ages. You can always wait even longer before opening. In India one often finds pickles that have been in a family for many decades.

Note: Every time you are serving this pickle, take out a small amount in a serving bowl. Use clean spoons to remove the pickle. Never put back what may be left from any serving back into the original jar. Any moisture and impurity can spoil the pickle. To keep the pickle fresh there should always be a layer of oil on the top of all the contents. You can keep it refrigerated once you begin using it. In India one often keeps them in a shelf for years. Serve as a condiment with most meals.

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Bengali Cuisine
Bengal is in the Mideast of India. Irrigated by the waters of the Ganges and the rich alluvial soil, this is a very fertile land. Bengal's culinary tradition's are based on the rich selection of produce, grains and sea food. Rice is a staple of the diet. The Brahmins of Bengal often eat fish and call it the fruit of the sea. The cuisine of Bengal is very different from most other parts of India. Many different immigrant communities settled in Bengal. They found a very willing community of neighbors and hosts. There has been a very strong sense of cultural exchange between the natives and the immigrants. But for the most part the people of Bengal have remained very pure in regards to their culinary habits and traditions. It is believed that Bengali's are still cooking food in accordance to what was dictated in the Bhagwad Gita. Their curries or gravies are usually mustard based. Panch Phoron (Bengali 5 Spice Mix) a combination of whole spices is used as a special flavoring for most dishes. One sees great integration in Bengali cuisine with regards to vegetables that came into India only in the 16th century. Potatoes, chiles, tomatoes have all become a part of the staple diet. Indians can never end a meal without dessert. Famous for their very sweet tooth, second only perhaps to the Moroccans, Indians regard Bengali Mithai (Bengali Desserts) as some of the best known in India.

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Maharashtrian Cuisine
Maharashtra is a Midwestern state of India. The name literally translates to "Great State." It has given birth to many freedom fighters and nationalists. A very diverse state in its geography, it has on its west the rain drenched western ghats that skirt the Arabian Sea and to the north it enjoys part of the great Deccan plateau. Earthy men and women give this state a very simple and yet vibrant feel. The range of food found in this state is breathtaking and a tickling of all of ones senses. Heavy on spices, the food here is also generous in its use of garlic and ginger. This cuisine is known for its many varieties of stuffed vegetables, cooked in very little oil or liquid. As one travels the coast one partakes in a rich journey into the much fabled world of Indian seafood. Many street foods and snacks are credited to this state.

Maharashtrian Recipes

* Bataata Bhaajee

Bataata Bhaajee
(potatoes seasoned Maharashtrian style)

* 3 large potatoes boiled, peeled, medium diced
* 1/2 inch piece fresh ginger root, finely grated
* 3 cloves of garlic, minced finely
* 10 curry leaves, coarsely broken by hand
* 4 green chiles, chopped finely
* 1 tsp. fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
* 1 tbsp. fresh cilantro leaves, finely chopped
* 1 tsp. turmeric powder
* pinch or two of asafoetida
* juice of half a lemon
* 1/2 tsp. cumin seeds
* 1 tsp. mustard seeds
* 2 1/2 tbsp. oil
* salt to taste

Heat oil in a Kadai or a heavy based frying pan.

Add the cumin and mustard seeds, asafoetida, and cook until the seeds splatter.

Add the ginger, garlic, chiles, curry leaves, turmeric and saute for a minute or two. Throw in the potatoes and the mint leaves. Gently stir them for a minute to cover them in the spices.

Sprinkle the salt and lemon juice over the potatoes and stir gently so as to not break the potatoes.

Cook for a few minutes, until the oil separates.

Garnish with the chopped cilantro and serve hot.

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Gujarati Cuisine
A midwestern state of India. Gujarat is the home state of Mahatma Gandhi. Gujarat is a dry state and also mostly vegetarian. The cooks of Gujarat have mastered the art of Indian vegetarian cooking. With some effort and tons of love for their culture, these cooks have made a mostly vegetarian cuisine, one of great richness and full of many mouth-watering dishes. One never missed eating poultry, meat or fish. A subtle blend of flavors, textures and spices, Gujarati cooking is not unlike the lives of its people. Also unique to Gujarat is the use of sugar in savory recipes. There are mainly three regions that form the state of Gujarat. Each of these has their own identity in the culinary landscape that makes Gujarat. Surat in the south of Gujarat is most famous for the many curries and gravies that exalt Gujarati cooking. Undhiya, is but one of the many famous dishes that come from Surat. It is said of Surat that "Surat nu jaman, te Kaashi nu maran." Which literally translates as "one must first make a haj to Surat to eat and then leave for Kaashi to die in peace". Ahmedabad a bustling city, is known for the many snack like dishes that make ones mouth water just as you think of them. Dhoklas, dhebras and theplas come from this city in central Gujarat. Kathiawar that is often romanced as a town as lush as a river of cream is famous for its dairy and its pickles. Recipes that have been mostly handed down generationally are today still as rich as they were many centuries ago. As one would see in any coastal state, Gujarat has seen many people make their land also their own. We see in many recipes today, improvisations that have given yet another unique flavor to this regions foods. Classic recipes are just as loved as others that have seen some changes. It is the love and respect for what is natural and what belongs to this region, that has kept the culture vibrant and radiant.

Gujarati Recipes

* Bataata Nu Shaak
* Gujarati Kadhi
* Sookhee Simla Mirchi Kee Sabzee

Bataata Nu Shaak
(potatoes cooked Gujarati style)

* 1 lbs. potatoes, peeled and cubed
* 1/8 tsp. heeng (asafoetida)
* 1/2 tsp. haldi (turmeric powder)
* 1 tsp. laal mirchi (red chili powder)
* 1/2 tsp. rai (mustard seeds)
* 1/2 tsp. sabut zeera (cumin seeds)
* 1/2 tbsp. sabut zeera (cumin seeds), toasted and ground into a powder
* 1/2 tbsp. sabut dhaniyaa (coriander seeds), toasted and ground into a powder
* 1 tbsp sugar
* 2 small hot green chiles
* 1/4 inch piece fresh ginger root, peeled
* 1 medium tomato, chopped finely
* 2 tbsp. cilantro leaves, chopped, for garnish
* salt to taste
* 2-3 tbsp. canola oil

In a coffee grinder make a fine paste out of the ginger and the green chiles. Use as little water as you can. Set aside.

In a kadai (Indian wok), heat the canola, throw in the mustard seeds, cumin seeds and fry until the seeds begin to crackle. Be careful as they splatter. You can cover with a lid.

Quickly thereafter add the asafoetida, turmeric, chili powder and the ginger-green chile paste. Stir fry for a couple of minutes until the oil separates. Make sure to not let the spices and the paste get burnt. Keep a little water on the side of the stove. Add drops of water whenever the pan gets too dry.

Add the chopped tomatoes and fry the masala. Fry for a few minutes until the tomatoes have wilted.

Add the potatoes and mix well. Add 2 cups of water, the sugar and salt to taste. Cover the kadai with a lid and cook until the potatoes are done. Sprinkle the ground cumin and coriander seeds. Mix and cook for another minute. Garnish with cilantro greens and serve hot.

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Gujarati Kadhi (spiced yogurt sauce)

* 2 cups plain yogurt
* 2 tbsp besan (gram flour)
* 4 curry leaves
* 3 hot small green chiles
* 1/4 inch piece fresh ginger root
* 2 tsp sugar
* salt to taste
* 2 tbsp cilantro greens, washed and chopped
* 2 tbsp canola
*
* Tempering:
* 2 tsp ghee or canola
* 1/2 tsp rai (mustard seeds)
* 1/2 tsp sabut zeera (cumin seeds)
* 1/4 tsp methi daana (fenugreek seeds)
* 1/8 tsp heeng (asafoetida)
* 2 dry whole red chiles
* 1 tsp red chili powder, optional
*

In a bowl, mix the besan with a few tablespoons of the yogurt. Make a smooth paste. Gradually add the yogurt and keep mixing to make sure there are no lumps. Add 3 cups of water mixing all the time to remove any lumps.

Now add the ginger-green chile paste, the curry leaves, sugar and the salt and mix again.

Take a heavy bottomed sauce pan and grease the base and sides of the pan with the teaspoon of canola.

Pour the yogurt mix into the pan and bring the contents of the pan to a boil over medium high flame.

Reduce heat and simmer for 15-20 minutes or until the sauce is of a nice thick custard like consistency. Keep stirring to make sure it does not stick to the base and burn.

In a small saute pan, heat the ghee and fry the mustard and cumin seeds until they crackle. Add the asafoetida and the who red chiles and cook until the cumin seeds are a nice golden color.

Turn heat off, throw in the red chili powder and immediately pour over the Kadhi. Simmer the Kadhi for a few minutes and serve piping hot, garnished with cilantro greens.

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Sookhee Simla Mirchi Kee Sabzee (Dry Spiced Bell Peppers)

* 2 large Simla mirchees (green bell peppers), washed and medium diced with seeds left in
* 1 tsp. laal mirchi (red chili powder)
* 1/2 tsp. pisaa dhaniya (coriander powder)
* 1/2 tsp. haldi (turmeric powder)
* 1 tsp. sugar
* 1/8 tsp. heeng (asafoetida)
* 1/2 tsp. rai (mustard seeds)
* 1 scant tsp. zeera (cumin seeds)
* 1 tbsp. canola
* salt to taste
* 1 tbsp. besan (chick pea flour)
* 1/2 tsp. amchur (dry mango powder)

Heat the canola in a Kadai or a frying pan. Add the cumin and mustard seeds and cook until they splatter. Add the heeng and cook for another few seconds.

Add the peppers and stir fry for 4-5 minutes. Add all ingredients, except besan and the amchur and saute for another couple of minutes.

Now add the besan and the amchur and saute stirring continuously for 3-4 minutes. Taste for salt and let the dish cool completely.

If traveling with this dish, make sure you completely cool this dish before you store it. It is great with all Indian flat breads. Especially theplas or pooris.

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Cuisine of Delhi
Delhi reinvented itself every time a dynasty took over what was loosely called India. Delhi goes back to the days of the Mahabharata. It is a chapter from this great book that is called the Gita. One realizes after studying that text how important food has been to this region. When I was growing up Delhi was a union territory. It was to India what Washington DC is to the United States. Since I moved here, Delhi is now a state within the republic of India. Having been the capital of many different dynasties, there is no one community that can call Delhi theirs. The same is true for its food. In Delhi one finds foods from all over India. Also in Delhi one sees a fusion of foods old and new and one sees the true melting of many cultures, people and cuisines together. It is a true melting point. A real metropolitan city. Of all the many communities living in Delhi, the food has been influenced most by the Muslim, Bania, Punjabi and the Kayastha community. The Banias are vegetarian and the other three communities enjoyed meat and fish just as much as they loved vegetables. Shahjehanabad was the name of this city before it was called Delhi. The spirit of lavishness and living life like it may end tomorrow is still alive today. Long after the Mughal rule. Street side vendors, tandoori stands, chaat waalas and lavish dinners at homes are still a part of daily life in Delhi. Cocktails, the many tandoori appetizers that are now a part of every famous Indian restaurant are all somehow linked to this region. Delhi has played a very important role in the political and cultural growth of India. The food of Delhi is a fine testament to that very important role.

Recipes From Delhi

* Khilwaan Urad Ki Daal
* Fish Curry

Khilwaan Urad Ki Daal (Dry Spiced Gram Beans)

* 2/3 cup dhuli urad ki daal (gram beans)
* 1 tbsp ginger, finely chopped
* 2 small hot green chiles, chopped
* 4 tsp ghee
* salt (to taste)
* 1 tsp haldi (turmeric powder)
* pinch of asafoetida
* 1 tsp cumin seeds
* 2 whole dried red chiles
* 1/2 cup chopped, cilantro leaves for garnish
* 1 ripe vine grown tomato, chopped into cubes for garnish.

Wash and clean daal. Soak in water for an hour. Drain.

In a saucepan, heat 2 teaspoons of ghee and fry the ginger and green chiles for a minute or two. Add the drained daal, salt and turmeric. Saute for a quick minute. Add enough water to cover the daal and then a 1/2 cup more.

Bring the daal to a boil and then simmer uncovered for around 25 minutes or until the water is absorbed and the daal is tender. In these 25 minutes, do not stir the daal. It is easily broken.

When the daal is tender and the water is absorbed you will see each grain visible by itself. Heat the remaining 2 teaspoons of ghee and the fry the heeng and cumin seeds, when the seeds are light golden add the whole red chiles and fry until the cumin is a nice rich golden color.

Pour over the daal and gently stir to mix through. You can serve the daal with chopped cilantro leaves and chopped tomatoes as garnish.

Note: This daal is common in the Kayastha community. It is simple and yet tricky. The daal is cooked like basmati rice. The end product has to be "Khilwaan" which means perfectly cooked and yet not broken or mushy. Each grain risen and separate. At holidays and parties Panditjee, our family cook, garnished this with crispy fried red onions and lemon wedges.

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Fish Curry

* 2-1/2 pounds flounder or any other firm white fish, boned and cut into 1.5 inch pieces, washed and pat dried
* 1 1/2 tbsp sesame seeds, dry roasted
* 2 tsp cumin seeds, dry roasted
* 2 tbsp poppy seeds (Indian, khus khus), dry roasted
* 2 tbsp coriander seeds, dry roasted
* 2 1/2 tbsp kalonji seeds (nigella), dry roasted
* 2 medium red onions, sliced finely
* 8 cloves of garlic, ground into paste with a few cumin seeds
* 1 inch fresh ginger root, ground into paste, or very finely chopped
* 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
* salt (to taste) 1/2 cup ghee
* 1 2/3 cups non-fat yogurt, nicely whipped
* 3 tbsp cilantro leaves, chopped, for garnish

Mix the dry roasted spiced and grind them into a powder. Set aside.

In a heavy bottom sauce pan, heat the ghee and fry the onions till they are a nice gold color.

Drain and remove the onions onto a bowl lined with paper towels and keep aside.

Now add the ginger, garlic and the haldi to the same ghee. Fry for a minute over medium flame. Remove the pan from the heat and add the ground spices and the yogurt.

Throw in the fried onions, add salt and mix thoroughly.

Throw in the fish pieces into the sauce and return to the stove top. On low heat simmer until fish is tender and cooked. Should not be more than 10-15 minutes. Sprinkle with the cilantro leaves for garnish.

Note: This recipe uses ingredients typical of Mughal cooking. The poppy seeds make the sauce thick. Use Indian poppy seeds only. This dish goes very well with rice or pooris. It should be accompanied with raita, some dry vegetable and condiments of your choice. Most Kayasthas and many Muslims in the north of India would have fish cooked in this style. Often one would also find their chefs using char magaz kaa masala. A mix of fours dry seeds from different fruits. They give the gravy a great flavor as well.

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Parsee Cuisine
The Parsis are Zoroastrians. They believe in the preaching of their prophet Zarathushtra. They believe in the one God, Ahura Mazda. They also believe in the natural elements which promote the teachings of that god. Thus they give great importance to the Sun, Wind and Fire. In the late 600s, after the Arabs overthrew the Persian rulers, the Parsis fled to India. They first settled in Gujarat. Soon they moved to Bombay and then to the other coastal town of Calcutta. The Parsis were given a warm welcome in India and were allowed to still practice their religion. They erected Fire Temples for worship and the Towers of Silence where they left the bodies of their dead. In return for this welcome freedom to practice their religion, they gave up eating beef in respect to the traditions of their Hindu rulers who gave them refuge. Parsi food is the amalgamation of all the many techniques of cooking found in the middle east and in India. They married their cooking styles of meats, eggs and sea food with the spices of this land. They maintained all their traditions but also developed a cuisine that has piqued the interest of all Indians. It is just as rich, spicy and varied as all other Indian regional cooking genres.

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Jewish Cuisine From India
The Jews of India are a very small community today. They settled in Bombay Cochin and Calcutta. What began as a small trickle in as early as the thirteenth century, became a large immigration in the mid 1800s. India was in the height of British rule and it became easier for the Jews to settle in India. They acted as middlemen in trade between the British, the Arabs and the Chinese. All across the globe one was seeing a heightened acceptance of things new. There was experimentation happening in all fields. Culinary fusion was just as prolific in this period. The introduction to the many tropical vegetables and spices was a fascinating encounter for these immigrants. They embraced most all of these spices and added them to their repertoire and created a Jewish cuisine that became only so much richer. The fusion of the cooking of Baghdad and those of the many Indian regions took place. The earlier part of the last century saw a great high point in the Jewish culture in India. This was true also for the foods of these people. In that last several decades many of these people have emigrated to other parts of the world. Not for any fear of persecution, but simply to pursue another life. The recipes that were created in the first 100 years after they moved to the Indian soil, have remained. They combined the best of the Maharashtrian, Bengali and the southern Indian cooking. Thus Jewish cooking of India was a mix of sweet and sour with spicy and hot. Also common throughout most Indian Jewish cooking is the use of sugar and coconut milk. Like the Parsis, the Jews of India gave up eating beef to show respect for their Hindu neighbors. Some even believed that beef was not kosher. Many non Jewish houses in Calcutta, Bombay and Cochin are still cooking these. And every time these recipes are created, one lives the memories of these people. In fact the cook that worked in the Jewish homes were most sought after. They were most often muslim men who cooked for the Jewish families under the tutelage of the ladies of the homes. In Bombay as also in Cochin and Calcutta, one still is able to find a rare few cooks that belong to that lineage.

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Andhra Cuisine
A south central state of India, Andhra Pradesh was the wealthiest state of pre-partition India. Hyderabad, the capital of the state is primarily muslim. Before partition it was ruled by 7 nizams. They lived lives that other nobilities would only fantasize about. The nizams reveled in excesses of fine culture and food. Lavish feasts of multiple courses and spread over several days were common place in this rule. Varied and aromatic, the food of this area is a mix of the meat rich cooking of the Muslims and the rice based, vegetable rich foods of the non-Muslim communities. Andhra Pradesh is most famous for their pickles and many chutneys. In Andhra Pradesh one always finds another meal that is hotter. As one gets used to the spiciness of a meal, the next one is made even hotter. chiles are consumed more here than most other states.

Andhra Recipes

* Tamaatar Kee Chutney
* Chole Kee Chaat

Tamaatar kee Chutney (Tomato Chutney)

* 1 cup ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped
* 2/3 cup onions
* 6-12 dried whole red chiles
* 1/2 tsp. turmeric
* 2 tbsp. chana daal
* salt to taste
* 4 tsp. canola oil
* Tempering:
* 2 tsp. canola oil
* 8 curry leaves
* 1 tsp. kalonji seeds (nigella)
* 1 tsp. black mustard seeds
* 3 dry whole red chiles

Heat oil in a large heavy skillet over medium flame. Add the daal and fry until golden brown. Add the onions and cook stirring until translucent. Add the dried red chiles, turmeric and the salt. Fry for a minute.

Add the tomatoes and cook until the tomatoes are mashed and soft. The oil should be coming to the sides at this time Remove from heat and cool.

Place in a blender and process to a coarse mix. Use as little if any water as possible.

Tempering:
Heat oil in a small kadai, over medium flame. Add the mustard seeds, wait till they crackle and then add red chiles, kalonji seeds, and the curry leaves, cook until the chiles are brown but not burnt.

Pour this tempered mix over the chutney and mix.

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Chole Kee Chaat (Chick Pea Salad)

* 2 cups drained canned chickpeas
* 1 medium potato, boiled in skin, cooled and chopped into small cubes
* 1 small hot green chile, chopped finely
* 1/2 small red onion, very finely chopped
* 3 teaspoon bhunaa zeera (ground, dry roasted whole cumin seeds)
* 2 teaspoon chaat masala
* 1/4 teaspoon garam masala
* 1 teaspoon red pepper powder
* 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper powder
* 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint leaves
* 1 tbsp chopped cilantro leaves
* salt (to taste)
* lemon or lime juice to taste
* mint leaves for garnish
* 3/4 cup thin sev (savory fine chick pea noodle crisps) for garnish, optional

In a bowl mix the chickpeas, potatoes and onions with all the spices. Toss and turn a few times to make sure the spices are evenly distributed.

Add the mint and cilantro leaves, the lemon or lime juices and toss again. Sprinkle salt to taste.

Serve on plates garnished with mint leaves and sev. The sev will make the salad nice and crunchy. You can get plain salted sev or spicy sev. Use whichever one you care to.

Note: This is a recipe found in many north Indian homes. It is prepared often during holidays as a appetizer or a side dish. The salad is hot and tart. Goes very well with papadams or as a side dish with any Indian dishes. You can add to the spiciness by using more red pepper powder and fresh green chiles to your taste. It tastes good at room temperature, but has a great bite served chilled on a hot summer afternoon.

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Tamil Cuisine
The state of Tamil Nadu is situated on the eastern coast of India. Enriched by the waters of the Bay of Bengal, this state has some of the oldest and most famous of all Hindu temples. Everything about the art and culture of this region is ancient, ornate and Dravidian. Madras which is also called the gateway to southern India is the capital of this state. It is the home to the prized kanjeevaram silk saris and also to the delicious foods known as South Indian food - Dosas, Idlis, uthappams, vadas and many sambhaars. Madras can be called the womb of the famous southern Indian cuisine. Known for its hospitality and for its respect for custom, every meal in a Tamilian home is a celebration. But even as all guests are showered with attention, food and fun, there is never a lavish or ostentatious show. All lifestyle is steeped in tradition. Black pepper, red chiles, cumin, turmeric, coriander, fennel, fenugreek and mustard seeds are some of the many spices that are used daily in these homes. Food and worship are both regarded as traditions that must be performed with respect for that which is ancient, sublime and soothing.

Tamil Recipes

* Rassam
* Avial

Rassam (Spicey Lentil Broth)

• 1 cup toor dal, picked, cleaned and washed
• 1 tsp turmeric powder
• 2 tsp tamarind pulp (Tamco)
• 3 cups chopped ripe tomatoes
• 2 cloves of garlic, very finely minced
• 1 tbsp coriander powder
• 1 tsp cumin powder
• 1/4 tsp asafoetida
• 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tsp red pepper powder
• 4 green chiles, chopped into large chunks
• 5 1/2 cups of water
• Tempering:
• 3 tsp canola
• 2 tsp back mustard seeds
• 1/4 tsp black cumin seeds
• 3 whole dried red chiles
• 10 curry leaves
• pinch of asafoetida
• salt to taste
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander, for garnish

In a saucepan combine dal, turmeric, and water. Bring to a boil over medium-flame. Simmer over low hear for a half hour, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. The pan should be partially covered as the lentils are cooking. The lentils should be tender at the end of the half hour. Cook more if they are still not too soft. Remove from heat and set aside

Strain the lentils into a bowl. Add enough water to make the broth upto 4 1/2 cups of liquid. Set aside the lentils to use for another recipe. Place tamarind pulp in a bowl and pour 1/2 cup of hot water and soak for 15 minutes. Mash with the back of a spoon. Strain into a bowl and set aside..Puree 2 and a half cups of the tomatoes with the garlic and a half cup of water until smooth

Add the tamarind water, pureed tomatoes, cumin, black pepper, red pepper, coriander powder, asafoetida and the green chiles to the strained lentil broth. Over a medium flame heat the mix until it is almost boiling. Make certain not to let the broth boil.

Reduce the heat to a gentle flame and simmer, partially covered for 20 minutes. Add the remaining chopped tomatoes and cook for a few minutes

Tempering: Heat the canola in a small frying pan. Add the mustard seeds and cook till they crackle. Add the cumin seeds, red chiles and curry leaves and the asafoetida. Cook until the chiles are lightly browned. Add this mixture to the soup and stir. Season to taste with salt and serve the soup garnished with coriander leaves. Serve piping hot in cups.

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Avial (Madras Style Vegetables)

* 1/2 cup green peas, thawed
* 2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/4 inch rounds
* 1 medium yellow squash, cut into 1/4 inch rounds
* 1 green plantain, peeled and cut into 1/4 inch strips
* 1 small red bell pepper, cut into 1/4 inch strips
* 1 cup green beans, french cut
* 10 fresh curry leaves
* 1 tsp. turmeric powder
* 1/2 cup ground coconut
* 6 green chiles, seeded and minced
* 1 tsp. cumin seeds
* 1/2 cup plain yogurt
* salt to taste
* 1 tsp coconut oil

In a large saucepan combine the peas, carrots, squash, plantain, bell peppers, beans, turmeric and curry leaves. Add a cup of water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer partially covered until vegetables are tender and have absorbed all the liquid (10 minutes).

Do not let the vegetables get too mushy. The slight crunch of the vegetables adds to the flavor of the dish.

In a bowl whisk the yogurt and set aside.

In a blender mix the coconut, chiles and cumin seeds into a paste using very little water.

Add this to the yogurt and mix the salt into this seasoned yogurt.

Add to the cooked vegetables in the pan. Sprinkle the coconut oil and mix well taking care not to break the vegetables.

Cover and simmer over very low heat until the mixture is warmed through. Serve hot.

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Cuisine of Karnataka
Karnataka is the state west of Andhra Pradesh. Kannada is the classic southern Indian language. The people of this state are very proud of their heritage. Udipi is a town in this state that is famous for its Brahmin cooks. The town is also famous for its Krishna temple. The foods prepared by the Brahmins are first offered to the gods. Udipi chefs travel all over to cook for special religious functions and also for marriages and other celebrations. Strictly vegetarian, Udipi chefs and their cuisine is now famous all across India. In fact there is an Udipi restaurant even in Queens in New York. Dosas (rice and bean crepes) and idlis (rice and bean cakes) are the most famous of their dishes. One sees many spices used in the curries from this area. Black pepper, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and tamarind are used in abundance. They are grown native to this region. As one travels south towards Kerala, one sees many curries that mantle meat and fish. Coconut is used in all its forms. Coconut oil is used to nourish the hair, coconut water is taken as a nutritive nectar, coconut milk and coconut meat are used in preparing the many curries and chutneys. The coffee grown in Karnataka is a favorite of all Indians. These are the beans used in making the traditional filtered coffee.

Recipes From Karnataka

* Vegetable Kurma
* Porial
* Cucumber Pachadi

Vegetable Kurma

* 1 cup green or string beans, finely chopped
* 1 cup carrots, finely chopped
* 2 potatoes, finely cubed
* 1/2 cup green peas
* 1 large tomato chopped
* Salt (to taste)
* 2 tablespoon ghee
* 2 bay leaves
* 2 whole dried red chiles
* 2 cloves
* 1/2 bunch cilantro leaves for garnish
* 1/2 cup coconut flakes
* 7 green chiles
* 1 small onion, chopped
* 1/2 inch fresh ginger
* 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
* 1 bunch cilantro leaves
* a little water
* 1 tablespoon cumin seeds
* 1 inch cinnamon stick
* 6 whole cloves
* 2 pods cardamom
* 1 tablespoon poppy seeds

Paste:

Place all the ingredients from the coconut to the water in an electric blender, adding only a little water. Blend into a fine paste.

Masala:

Place the cumin seeds, cinnamon bark, cloves, cardamom pods, and poppy seeds in a heavy pan. Dry roast them until they give off a strong aroma. Remove from flame and cool.

Grind to a fine powder in a blender and set aside.

Peel and prepare vegetables as necessary. Place them in a heavy saucepan. Add just enough water to cover the vegetables. Cover pan with a lid and cook until the vegetables are tender. Now add the chopped tomatoes and salt to taste. Simmer for 3-4 minutes. Add 3-4 cups water depending on how thick you want the stew. Bring to a boil.

Add the paste. Stir thoroughly before sprinkling in the masala powder.

Heat the ghee in a heavy frying pan or skillet. Saute the bay leaves, red chiles and cloves until the chiles are a nice brown but not burnt. Now, add the perfumed ghee into the Kurma.

Garnish with cilantro leaves. Serve hot with rice, chapatis or puris.

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Porial (Mixed Vegetables)

* 1 dozen green beans, cut into 1/2 inch pieces
* 3 small carrots, cut into 1/4 inch rounds
* 2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/4 inch cubes
* 1 cup green peas, thawed if using frozen
* 1/2 inch piece fresh ginger root, minced finely
* 3 cloves of garlic, ground into a paste with a pinch of cumin seeds
* 6 curry leaves
* 1/2 cup finely chopped red onions
* 3 green chiles, chopped finely
* 1 tbsp black mustard seeds
* 1/4 tsp. asafoetida
* 1 tsp. urad daal (white gram beans)
* 1 tsp. chana daal (yellow split peas)
* 1 tsp. turmeric
* 3 tbsp. unsweetened coconut flakes
* 2 tbsp. lime juice
* 3 tbsp. Canola oil
* salt to taste
* 1 tbsp. cilantro leaves, chopped finely
* 1 small hot green chile, chopped finely

Soak potatoes and peas in hot water for 20 minutes. Drain and set aside. Omit this for frozen peas.

In a kadai, heat oil over medium flame, add the mustard seeds and cook until they crackle, add the chana daal, urad daal, asafoetida, garlic, ginger, curry leaves and the green chiles, saute until the urad daal is a light golden color. Add the onions. Saute until the onions are translucent.

Now add the beans, potatoes, peas and carrots and saute for a few minutes. Add a 3/4 cup of water and bring to a boil.

Cook on simmer, partially covered until vegetables are tender(approx. 10 minutes). Remove lid and cook uncovered to evaporate any excess liquid in the pan.

Add the coconut and saute for a minute or two. Pour in the lime juice and mix well. Garnish with chopped cilantro leaves and chopped green chiles.

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Cucumber Pachadi / Raita (Cucumber in a flavored Yogurt Sauce)

* 16 ounces plain non-fat yogurt
* 1 cucumber, shredded
* 2 green chiles, seeded and chopped finely
* 6-10 curry leaves
* 2 tsp. canola
* 1/2 tsp. heeng (asafoetida)
* 1 tsp. rai (mustard seeds)
* 2 dry whole red chiles
* 1 tsp. urad daal (white gram beans)
* Salt to taste

Whisk the yogurt in a bowl until smooth.

Add the shredded cucumber and the green chiles into the yogurt and mix well.

In a small skillet, add the canola and heat over a medium flame. When oil is hot add the mustard seeds. When they begin to cracke add the heeng, urad daal, dry red chiles and curry leaves. Cook until the daal is golden brown in color.

Pour this tempered oil over the yogurt and mix well.

Serve chilled with most any Indian meal.

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Photo by Ben Fink.

Suvir Saran | chef@suvir.com

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