Suvir Saran : chef ¥ author ¥ consultant
biodévi restaurantbooksrecipesspicesschedulethe farmconsultingweblogretailtravellinkspresscontact

Buy the book now.

Selected recipes from Indian Home Cooking

•  •  •  •  •  •  •

chilled yogurt soup with cucumber and mint

Chilled Yogurt Soup with Cucumber and Mint

Serves 4 to 6

This is the perfect starter or light meal for a hot summer day.  The yogurt makes the soup taste and feel luxuriously creamy without the heaviness of cream.  You may substitute beet for the cucumber (or combine beet and cucumber):  boil the beet until tender, grate it finely and add it instead of or along with the cucumber.  The beet will give the soup a lovely rose color.  If you’d like a thinner soup, add milk until the consistency is as you like it.

1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds

3 1/2 cups plain yogurt

1 cucumber, peeled and coarsely grated

3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint leaves

1 fresh, hot green chile, seeded and finely chopped

1/4 teaspoon garam masala, optional

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

Whole, fresh mint leaves, for garnish

1.  Toast the cumin seeds in a dry frying pan or saucepan over medium heat until lightly browned and fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.  Grind to a powder in a spice grinder; set aside.

2.  Combine the yogurt and cucumber in the bowl of a food processor and process until smooth.  Scrape the mixture out into a bowl.  Add the cumin and all of the remaining ingredients except for the whole mint leaves and stir well.  Chill the soup until you are ready to serve.  Serve in bowls topped with the fresh mint leaves.  (You can also sprinkle some toasted cumin seed powder, if you like.)

Click here to read the contents of the chapter on soups.

stir-fried carrots with cumin and lime

Stir-Fried Carrots with Cumin and Lime
(Gaajar Kee Sabzi)

Serves 4-6

I am not especially fond of carrots but I really do love them in this dish.  Perhaps it’s because they are grated – they seem to absorb the flavors of the spices better.  Their sweetness is accentuated by the taste of the cumin and the bitterness of the fenugreek.  Serve this warm, as a vegetable, or chill it and serve it as a salad.

2 1/2 tablespoons canola oil

2 teaspoons black mustard seeds

1 inch fresh ginger, peeled and cut into a fine julienne

1/2 fresh, hot green chile, minced

3 whole, dried red chiles

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

8 fresh or 12 frozen curry leaves, torn into pieces, optional

1 1/2 pounds carrots, peeled and grated on the large holes of a grater

3/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste

Juice of 1/2 lime or lemon

1.  Combine the oil and mustard seeds, if using, in a large wok, kadai or frying pan over medium-high heat.  Cook, stirring, until the mustard seeds crackle, 1 to 2 minutes.

2.  Add the ginger, fresh and dried chiles, cumin and curry leaves, if using, and cook stirring, until the ginger crisps a little, about 1 1/2 minutes. (Stand back if using curry leaves; they spit when they hit the oil)

3.  Add the carrots and cook, stirring, until warmed through, 3 to 4 minutes.  Stir in the salt and the lime or lemon juice.  Taste for salt and serve hot or cold.

Click here to read the contents of the chapter on vegetables.

simple lahori chicken curry with onion and tomato

Simple Lahori Chicken Curry with onion and tomato

Serves 4

We have a saying in India that a person who hasn't seen Lahore has yet to be born.  Lahore is a city in what is now Pakistan. The hub of the land trade between India and the Middle East, it used to be called “the Paris of the East” because it was such an important center of high culture in India.  Now, I’m sad to say, neglect and bad government have diminished that exquisite city.  The street foods and meat preparations of Lahore are still legendary, though.  This chicken curry is a staple for Lahoris and a good first chicken dish for the novice Indian cook.  Serve it with rice and a raita.

4-pound chicken, cut into 8 to 10 pieces and skinned

3/4 teaspoon turmeric

3/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Salt

1 1/2 medium onions, roughly diced

5 garlic cloves

2 inches fresh ginger, peeled and cut in half crosswise

3 tablespoons canola oil

2 inches cinnamon stick

12 green cardamom pods

9 whole cloves

9 black peppercorns

2 large tomatoes, chopped

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1/4 cup yogurt, whisked until smooth

1 cup water

1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro

Juice of 1 lemon

1.  Combine the chicken, 1/2 teaspoon of the turmeric, 1/2 teaspoon of the cayenne and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a bowl and stir to coat the chicken with the spices.  Let stand while you make the sauce.

2.  Finely mince the onion, garlic and ginger in a food processor and set aside.

3.  Combine 2 tablespoons of the oil, the cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and black peppercorns in a large casserole over medium-high heat.  Cook, stirring, until the cinnamon unfurls, 1 to 2 minutes.

4.  Add the minced onion mixture and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring, until the onion browns around the edges, 10 to 15 minutes. 5.  Remove and discard the cinnamon and stir in the remaining 1/4 teaspoon turmeric and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne.  Add the tomatoes and tomato paste and cook, stirring, 5 minutes.  Transfer to a food processor or blender and puree until smooth; set aside. 

6.  Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in the same pan over medium-high heat.  Add the chicken and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. 

7.  Add the yogurt, 1 tablespoon at a time and stirring well after each addition.  Cook, stirring, 2 minutes to evaporate some of the moisture.

7.  Add the pureed tomato mixture and bring to a boil.  Stir in the water.  Return to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, partially covered, until the chicken is cooked through, about 30 minutes.  Stir and scrape the bottom of the pan every 5 to 8 minutes to keep the sauce from sticking.  Then uncover and cook 5 more minutes to reduce and thicken the sauce.  Stir in the cilantro and lemon juice.  Taste for salt and serve hot.

Click here to read the contents of the chapter on poultry.

lamb curry with coriander, garam masala and coconut

Lamb Curry with Coriander, Garam Masala and Coconut

Serves 4

This is a variation on the preceding recipe.  It’s made exactly the same way but uses a spice paste with curry leaves and coconut in place of the spice powder in the original recipe.  Potatoes or another vegetable can be added to this recipe as well.

SPICE PASTE

12 black peppercorns

8 green cardamom pods

5 whole cloves

16 fresh or 24 frozen curry leaves

2 whole, dried red chiles

1 bay leaf

1/4 cup unsweetened, shredded coconut, or 1/4 cup ground blanched almonds

2 pounds well trimmed, boneless leg of lamb, cut into 1- to 1 1/2- inch pieces

3 tablespoons canola oil

3 medium red onions

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

4 garlic cloves

2 inches fresh ginger, peeled and cut into large chunks

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste

1/2 cup plain yogurt, whisked until smooth

3 cups water

1/2 teaspoon garm masala

1/4 cup heavy cream (optional)

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1.  For the spice paste, combine all of the ingredients in a spice grinder and grind to a paste, using a little water if you need to.  Set aside. Chop one of the onions and cut the remaining two into large chunks.2.  Heat the oil in a large, heavy bottomed casserole over medium-high heat.  Add the chopped onion and the salt and cook, stirring often, until the onion just begins to brown, about 10 minutes. 

3.  Meanwhile, combine the onion chunks, the garlic and ginger in a food processor and process to a paste; set aside.

4.  When the onion has browned, add the spice paste and the lamb.  Cook, stirring often, until the lamb begins to brown, 6 to 7 minutes.  (If the lamb doesn't brown, turn up the heat.). Add the pureed onion mixture and cook, stirring, until the mixture is dry and the oil begins to separate, about 10 more minutes.

6.  Add the coriander and cayenne and cook, stirring, 2 more minutes.

7.  Add the yogurt a tablespoon at a time, and stirring well after each addition.  Then cook, stirring often, until the mixture is dry again and the meat is beginning to stick to the bottom of the pan, about 5 minutes.

8.  Add the water and garam masala, stir well, and simmer, covered, until the lamb is tender, 35 to 40 more minutes. 

9.  Just before serving, add the cream, if using, and bring almost to a simmer.  Taste for salt.  Sprinkle with cilantro and serve hot.

Click here to read the contents of the chapter on meat.

Photo by Ben Fink

Mangalore Fried Shrimp

Serves 4

This dish is from the southern Indian coastal state of Karnataka where seafood is an important part of the diet.  The shrimp has extraordinary flavor.  I sometimes vary the recipe by adding 1-1/2 tablespoons unsweetened, shredded coconut along with the mustard seeds, or 2 to 6 chopped, small fresh green chiles with the scallions.  Serve with Green Chutney (page 209) or lemon wedges, Lemon Rice (page 92) and a raita.

1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 teaspoon turmeric

1/4 teaspoon ground mustard

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

4 teaspoons canola oil

1/2 teaspoon black mustard seeds

6 fresh or 10 frozen curry leaves, torn into pieces

3 tablespoons finely chopped scallion

Salt, to taste

1.  Rinse the shrimp and pat them dry on paper towels.  Put them in a bowl and sprinkle with the cayenne, turmeric, ground mustard and lemon juice.  Stir gently to coat the shrimp evenly with the spices.  Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

2. When the shrimp have marinated, combine the oil, mustard seeds and curry leaves in a large wok, frying pan or kadai over medium-high heat.  Cook, stirring, until the mustard seeds crackle and the curry leaves brown around the edges, 1 to 2 minutes. 

3.  Add the shrimp and cook, stirring, 30 seconds, stirring often. 

4.  Add the scallion and cook, stirring, until the shrimp turn pink all over, about 1 minute.  Sprinkle with salt and serve hot.

Click here to read the contents of the chapter on fish and shellfish.

Photo by Ben Fink

Aunty Susan's Orange Flan

Serves 6-8

I got the original version of this recipe from my neighbor in Delhi, whom we called Susan Aunty. (In India, all neighbors are addressed as uncles or aunts; Susan Aunty is a Christian from Kerala in southern India, and so she has a Christian name.)  I've embellished her recipe with orange blossom water and cream cheese.  I cook the caramel until it's quite dark – the slight bitterness of a darker caramel contrasts nicely with the sweet custard.

1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk

11/2 cups half and half

4 large eggs

8 ounces cream cheese

2 tablespoons orange marmalade

1/4 cup orange liqueur

1 teaspoon orange blossom water, optional

1 cup sugar

1/4 cup water

Grated zest of 2 oranges

1 inch cinnamon stick

1.  Preheat the oven to 350F and remove all but the bottom oven rack.  Line an 8- by 8- inch or larger baking dish with a doubled kitchen towel.

2.  Combine the sweetened condensed milk, half and half, eggs, cream cheese, marmalade, orange liqueur and orange flower water in the blender and blend until smooth.  Set aside.

3.  Combine the sugar, water, orange zest and cinnamon in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan.  Bring to a simmer and remove from the heat.  Stir until the sugar is dissolved and the syrup is clear.  Then return to the heat and boil, swirling the pan every now and then, until syrup caramelizes to a deep brown color, 4 to 5 more minutes.  Immediately pour the caramel into a 2 1/2-quart metal charlotte mold and tip the mold to coat it with the caramel.  Let the mold cool a few minutes and then pour the custard mixture into it.

4.  Put the mold in the baking dish and then put the dish into the preheated oven.  Use a measuring cup to add hot tap water to almost fill the baking dish.  Bake until the custard is just set but still jiggles when shaken, and a skewer stuck in about 1 inch from the edge comes out clean, about 1 hour 25 minutes.  Carefully lift the charlotte mold out of the pan.  Turn off the oven and let the water in the baking dish cool a little before moving it.  Refrigerate the flan to chill completely.

5.  To serve, set the charlotte mold over medium heat until the bottom gets hot, about 1 minute.  (This is to melt the caramel so that the flan will unmold.)  Run a knife around the edge to loosen the flan.  Overturn a serving plate on top of the mold and then turn the mold upside down on top of the plate.  Remove the mold. Cut the flan into wedges and serve.

Click here to read the contents of the chapter on sweets.

Photo by Ben Fink

Indian Fruit Punch

Makes about 2 quarts

I make this with a number of commercial fresh fruit juices that I buy at my supermarket.  If you can’t find these exact juices, feel free to substitute any that you like.

2 cups fresh raspberry juice

2 cups fresh strawberry juice

2 cups fresh mango juice

2 cups fresh banana-mango or other banana fruit juice

1 cup fresh orange juice

2 tablespoons grenadine syrup

1 cup heavy cream

Combine all of the ingredients in a 2–quart or larger plastic pitcher with a lid and shake to combine.  Chill and serve cold.

Click here to read the contents of the chapter on drinks.

Photo by Ben Fink

Cucumber Raita
(kheere ka raita)

Serves 4-6

This is the most common raita in India, and in America, too! Cucumbers are particularly cooling to the palate in the heat of the summer. As a child, I remember feeling comforted if I could at least find a cucumber raita on a restaurant menu—the other options all looked too exotic!

2 1/4 cups plain yogurt

1 large cucumber, peeled and shredded

1 fresh hot green chile, seeded and finely chopped

1/2 teaspoon ground toasted cumin (see sidebar, page 00)

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste

Whisk the yogurt in a bowl until smooth and lightened. Add the shredded cucumber, green chile, toasted cumin, and cayenne and stir. Chill well and stir in the salt just before serving.

Click here to read the contents of the chapter on raitas.

Photo by Ben Fink

Rice Pilaf with "Standing" Spices
(Khade Masale Ke Chaawal)

Serves 6-8

My maternal grandmother, Nani, whose family is from the Punjab in northern India, used to make this rather special rice pilaf whenever we and any of her other grandchildren came to visit.  It is a common Punjabi party dish.  Khade Masale which literally means "standing spices" refers to the whole spices that are cooked into the rice to flavor it.  In India, we wouldn’t remove the spices from the finished dish.  People bite right into them: they enjoy the heat.  If you don’t, wrap the spices in a square of cheesecloth as my father's mother did.  Saute the spice bundle in the oil in step 5, as usual, but cook for 1-1/2 rather than 1 minute.  Or, just pick the spices out after the rice is cooked.

As a child, the crisp, fried onion garnish was my favorite treat.  Whenever I smelled the onions cooking, I'd run to Panditji who, generous man that he was, always gave me a taste.  (That said, the rice can also stand on its own without the onions.)

2 cups basmati rice

4 1/2 cups cold water

2 medium red onions

1/4 cup canola oil, plus about 1 cup for deep-frying

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

8 green cardamom pods

2 1/2 to 3 inches cinnamon stick, broken in half

1/4 teaspoon whole cloves

1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns

1/4 teaspoon coriander seeds

3 bay leaves

3 whole, dried red chiles

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon salt

1.  Combine the rice and water in a bowl and soak for 20 minutes.  Drain the rice and reserve the water separately.

2.  Mince one onion and reserve.

3.  For the fried onion garnish, thinly slice the second onion.  Heat the 1 cup oil in a small (about 6 inches in diameter), heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat to 350F.  (The oil should come about 1/2 inch up the side of the pan.  If necessary, add more oil.) Add the sliced onion and deep fry, stirring often, until the onion turns dark brown, 15 to 20 minutes.  Drain on paper towels and then let stand until cool and crisp.  Set aside. Discard the oil.

4.  Preheat the oven to 350F.

5.  Combine the 1/4 cup oil, the cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, peppercorns, coriander, bay leaves and chiles in a large, oven-proof casserole over medium-high heat.  Cook, stirring, until the cinnamon unfurls, 1 to 2 minutes.

6.  Add the reserved minced onion and cook, stirring, until wilted, about 5 minutes.  If the caramelized sugars from the onion begin to collect on the bottom of the pan, add water, about a tablespoon at a time, and stir, scraping the bottom of the pan topick up the browned bits.

7.  Add the garlic and cook, stirring, 30 seconds.

8.  Add the drained rice and cook, stirring, 1 minute. 

9.  Add the reserved soaking water and salt and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally to keep the rice from sticking to the bottom of the pan.  Then turn the heat down and simmer vigorously until the water is entirely absorbed and the rice cooked through, about 10 minutes.

10.  Put the casserole in the oven and bake 10 minutes.  Then remove from the oven and let rest 5 minutes.  Sprinkle with the fried onions and serve hot.

Click here to read the contents of the chapter on rice.

Suvir Saran | chef@suvir.com

American Masala Farm
1189 Chamberlain Mills Road
Hebron, NY 12865

website design by Tana Butler
www.tanabutler.com