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Selected recipes from American Masala

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Mango, Pineapple and Grapefruit Salad with Chile-Lime Vinaigrette

Serves 6 to 8

When testing this recipe for American Masala, I was lucky to have Mom in town visiting from India. I asked her to try a bite of it and it actually made her blush! For Mom to have reacted this way, and to a salad no less, I knew that the testing of this salad was complete. To save time, I buy pre-cut fruit at the grocery store. It makes taking an extra minute to segment the grapefruit not seem like a chore. This salad is superb with grilled fish or chicken. It also makes a light and refreshingly different dessert.

For the salad
2 pink grapefruits, pith and peel sliced off, fruit cut into segments and segments cut in half
4 semi-ripe mangoes, peeled and chopped
1 ripe pineapple, peeled, cored and chopped
3 tablespoons sugar

For the vinaigrette
2 tablespoons neutral flavored oil like grapeseed or tea oil
2 tablespoons white wine, champagne or citrus vinegar
1/2 jalapeño (seeded and veined if you prefer a milder flavor), finely chopped
1/2 cup chopped fresh mint leaves
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
1/2 lime zested and juiced
1 tablespoon sugar
Pinch cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon cracked peppercorns

Toss the grapefruit with the mangoes, pineapples and sugar together in a large bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Meanwhile make the vinaigrette. In a medium bowl whisk together the vinaigrette ingredients. Pour over the fruit, toss to combine and serve.

Photo by Ben Fink

Crispy Okra Salad (Kararee Bhindi)

Serves 4

This isn’t a traditional recipe, but something Panditji, my family’s Brahman chef, and I came up with when I was 10 years old. Originally we slit the okra in half lengthwise and marinated it with chickpea flour, lemon juice and spices. Since coming to the US, I have streamlined the recipe and now I find it more addictive than ever. Many of my friends proclaim it to be the ideal substitute to french fries. Although I think of this as a salad, others call it a sidedish. You can serve it as either.

Canola oil
1 pound okra, stems removed and thinly sliced lengthwise
1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced
2 small or 1 medium tomatoes, cored, seeded and thinly sliced
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 1/2 teaspoons chaat masala

Heat 2 inches of oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot to 350°F. Add 1/3 of the okra and fry until browned and crisp, about 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and repeat with remaining okra, making sure the oil temperature comes back to 350°F before frying additional batches.

In a large bowl, toss the okra with the onions, tomatoes, cilantro, lemon juice, chaat masala and salt. Taste for seasoning and serve immediately.

 

Photo by Ben Fink

Bean Soup

Serves 8

This bean soup is hearty, smoky and rich. Instead of using a chicken or vegetable stock, I build flavor by frying the spices in oil before adding the vegetables, bacon and beans. When used together, I like to think of spices like red chiles, bay, cloves, cinnamon and peppercorns as the Indian version of a bouquet garni. For a faster soup, use 4-1/2 cups canned and rinsed cannellini beans (or other white beans), adding them with the scallions, and cooking for 30 minutes instead of 1-1/2 to 2 hours. In India, we often add a pinch of asafoetida to dishes with beans. Not only does it lend an elusive, garlic-onion flavor, but it also aids in digesting the beans.

5 cups water plus 1 cup for splashing pot
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
10 black peppercorns
8 whole cloves
4 dried bay leaves
4 dried red chiles
1-inch piece cinnamon stick
2 large red onions, chopped
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1/2 pound thick-cut bacon, finely chopped
2 medium parsnips, peeled and sliced into rounds
5 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
2 cups dried cannellini beans soaked in cool water overnight and drained (if using canned beans see headnote)
12 scallions, white and light green part only, thinly sliced
Pinch asafoetida
Lemon wedges for serving

Place 1 cup of water next to your stovetop. Heat the olive oil with the peppercorns, cloves, bay leaves, red chiles and cinnamon in a large pot over medium-high heat until the cinnamon unfurls, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the onions and salt and cook until the onions are soft and browned, about 6 to 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the bacon, parsnips and garlic and cook until the onions are deeply brown, about 10 minutes longer. Stir often, splashing the pot with water (you may not need the full cup) and scraping browned bits from the bottom of the pot if the onions or bacon begin to stick. Add the cannellini beans, scallions and asafoetida (if using) and cook for 2 minutes. Pour in 5 cups of water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, cover, and cook until the beans are tender, about 1-1/2 to 2 hours, stirring every 20 minutes. Taste for seasoning and serve with a lemon wedge.

 

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Pork Chops with Pear Chutney
Serves 4

The oil in the marinade makes it possible to cook these chops in a skillet with no extra fat. If you don’t have any Pear Chutney in the house, serve these with some applesauce spiked with a pinch of cayenne pepper.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1-1/2 teaspoons cracked peppercorns
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Four 8-ounce 3/4" to 1-inch thick pork rib chops
1/2 recipe Pear Chutney
2 teaspoons sugar

Place the olive oil, coriander, cracked pepper, salt and cayenne pepper in a resealable gallon-sized plastic bag. Add the pork chops and turn to coat. Refrigerate for 20 minutes or overnight.

Set an oven rack to the upper-middle position and heat your broiler to high. Heat a large oven-safe skillet for 2 minutes over medium-high heat. Add the pork chops and sear until browned, about 3 minutes. Turn the chops over and transfer the skillet to the oven. Broil the chops for 3 minutes and then remove the skillet from the oven spread 2 tablespoons of Pear Chutney evenly over each chop. Sprinkle each chop with 1/4 teaspoon of sugar and return the skillet to the oven. Continue to broil the chops until the chutney is golden and even a little charred, about 1 to 1-1/2 minutes. Transfer the chops to a platter and serve.

Pear Chutney
Makes about 2 cups

In Himachal Pradesh and Kashmir, two northern Indian states, fruit orchards are abundant, as are amazing pears. I created this recipe thinking of these regions. It has since become a classic at my restaurant in New York. Certain regulars are chomping at the bit for me to bottle the Pear Chutney for commercial sale. Until that time comes, they’ll have to sate their appetite by making it for themselves. I like to can the chutney and offer it as hostess gifts or to friends visiting my home. It is excellent with most any roasted meat, as well as on a sandwich. Fenugreek leaves add a gentle bitter contrast to the sweetness of the pears, but if you can’t find dried fenugreek leaves, simply omit them.

3 tablespoons canola oil
3 to 6 dried red chiles
1-1/2 teaspoons fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/4 cup dried fenugreek leaves (optional)
1/2 teaspoon paprika
Pinch asafetida
3-1/2 pounds (about 6) Bartlett or d’Anjou pears, peeled, halved, cored, quartered and thinly sliced crosswise
1-1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

Heat the oil with the chiles, fennel seeds and cumin seeds in a large saucepan or skillet over medium-high heat until the cumin is browned, about 2 to 2-1/2 minutes. Stir in the fenugreek leaves (if using), paprika and asafetida and cook for 15 seconds. Add the pears and salt and cook until the pears get juicy, about 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the sugar and vinegar, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for 3 minutes. Cook until the pears are soft, sticky, deeply golden and caramelized, stirring often, for about 35 to 45 minutes. Taste for seasoning, transfer to a plastic container and refrigerate for up to one week or ladle into dry and sterilized jars and can according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Chicken with Chickpeas

Chicken-Chickpea Harira
Serves 8

Harira is a Moroccan soup that is served during Ramadan to break the day’s fast. It is most often prepared with lamb and perfumed with spices like turmeric and cinnamon. Boneless chicken thigh meat generally has a silkier texture and more depth of flavor than chicken breast meat (though chicken breast meat can be easily substituted if you prefer).  Ground saffron, toasted cumin, and the classic Indian spice blend, garam masala, contribute a deep, sultry flavor.

My favorite saffron is from Kashmir, a state in northern India. Its color, aroma and taste is headier than Spanish or Persian saffron, and its depth of flavor and color is deeper and stronger. To get the most flavor from saffron, grind the needles into a fine powder using a mortar and pestle.

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon cracked peppercorns
5 whole cloves
1-inch piece cinnamon stick
2 red onions, finely diced
1-1/2 pounds boneless chicken thigh meat cut into small cubes
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper or 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
3 medium tomatoes, diced
Two 15-ounce cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed
2 cups boxed or canned chopped tomatoes
3 cups water
1/2 teaspoon saffron threads, finely ground
1 teaspoon Toasted Cumin
1/2 teaspoon Garam Masala or sambhar powder
1/4 cup chopped cilantro

Heat the olive oil with the cracked pepper, cloves and cinnamon in a large pot over medium-high heat for 1 minute. Add the onions and cook until they’re soft and lightly browned around the edges, about 3 to 5 minutes, stirring often. Add the chicken and cook until the meat releases its liquid and the pan dries, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Mix in the turmeric, Aleppo pepper or cayenne and salt and cook for 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the tomatoes and cook until the tomatoes release their juices, about 3 1/2 minutes, stirring often and scraping any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Add the chickpeas, the boxed or canned tomatoes and the water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and simmer for 35 minutes. Stir in the saffron, toasted cumin, garam masala or rasam and the chopped cilantro. Taste for seasoning and serve.

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Photos by Ben Fink.

Suvir Saran | chef@suvir.com

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Hebron, NY 12865

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