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Selected
recipes from Indian Home Cooking
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Chilled
Yogurt Soup with Cucumber and Mint
Serves 4 to 6
This is the perfect starter or
light meal for a hot summer day. The yogurt makes
the soup taste and feel luxuriously creamy without
the heaviness of cream. You may substitute beet
for the cucumber (or combine beet and cucumber): boil
the beet until tender, grate it finely and add it instead
of or along with the cucumber. The beet will
give the soup a lovely rose color. If you’d
like a thinner soup, add milk until the consistency
is as you like it.
1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds
3 1/2 cups plain yogurt
1 cucumber, peeled and coarsely
grated
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh
mint leaves
1 fresh, hot green chile, seeded
and finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon garam masala, optional
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground white
pepper
Whole, fresh mint leaves, for garnish
1. Toast the cumin seeds
in a dry frying pan or saucepan over medium heat until
lightly browned and fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Grind
to a powder in a spice grinder; set aside.
2. Combine the yogurt and
cucumber in the bowl of a food processor and process
until smooth. Scrape the mixture out into a bowl. Add
the cumin and all of the remaining ingredients except
for the whole mint leaves and stir well. Chill
the soup until you are ready to serve. Serve
in bowls topped with the fresh mint leaves. (You
can also sprinkle some toasted cumin seed powder, if
you like.)
Click here to
read the contents of the chapter on soups. |
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Stir-Fried
Carrots with Cumin and Lime
(Gaajar Kee Sabzi)
Serves 4-6
I am not especially
fond of carrots but I really do love them in this dish. Perhaps
it’s because they are grated – they seem
to absorb the flavors of the spices better. Their
sweetness is accentuated by the taste of the cumin
and the bitterness of the fenugreek. Serve this
warm, as a vegetable, or chill it and serve it as a
salad.
2 1/2 tablespoons
canola oil
2 teaspoons black
mustard seeds
1 inch fresh ginger,
peeled and cut into a fine julienne
1/2 fresh, hot green
chile, minced
3 whole, dried red
chiles
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
8 fresh or 12 frozen
curry leaves, torn into pieces, optional
1 1/2 pounds carrots,
peeled and grated on the large holes of a grater
3/4 teaspoon salt,
or to taste
Juice of 1/2 lime
or lemon
1. Combine the
oil and mustard seeds, if using, in a large wok, kadai
or frying pan over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring,
until the mustard seeds crackle, 1 to 2 minutes.
2. Add the ginger,
fresh and dried chiles, cumin and curry leaves, if
using, and cook stirring, until the ginger crisps a
little, about 1 1/2 minutes. (Stand back if using curry
leaves; they spit when they hit the oil)
3. Add the carrots
and cook, stirring, until warmed through, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir
in the salt and the lime or lemon juice. Taste
for salt and serve hot or cold.
Click here to
read the contents of the chapter on vegetables. |
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Simple
Lahori Chicken Curry with onion and tomato
Serves 4
We have a saying in
India that a person who hasn't seen Lahore has yet
to be born. Lahore is a city in what is now Pakistan.
The hub of the land trade between India and the Middle
East, it used to be called “the Paris of the
East” because it was such an important center
of high culture in India. Now, I’m sad
to say, neglect and bad government have diminished
that exquisite city. The street foods and meat
preparations of Lahore are still legendary, though. This
chicken curry is a staple for Lahoris and a good first
chicken dish for the novice Indian cook. Serve
it with rice and a raita.
4-pound chicken, cut
into 8 to 10 pieces and skinned
3/4 teaspoon turmeric
3/4 teaspoon cayenne
pepper
Salt
1 1/2 medium onions,
roughly diced
5 garlic cloves
2 inches fresh ginger,
peeled and cut in half crosswise
3 tablespoons canola
oil
2 inches cinnamon
stick
12 green cardamom
pods
9 whole cloves
9 black peppercorns
2 large tomatoes,
chopped
2 tablespoons tomato
paste
1/4 cup yogurt, whisked
until smooth
1 cup water
1/2 cup chopped fresh
cilantro
Juice of 1 lemon
1. Combine the
chicken, 1/2 teaspoon of the turmeric, 1/2 teaspoon
of the cayenne and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a bowl and
stir to coat the chicken with the spices. Let
stand while you make the sauce.
2. Finely mince
the onion, garlic and ginger in a food processor and
set aside.
3. Combine 2
tablespoons of the oil, the cinnamon, cardamom, cloves
and black peppercorns in a large casserole over medium-high
heat. Cook, stirring, until the cinnamon unfurls,
1 to 2 minutes.
4. Add the minced
onion mixture and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring,
until the onion browns around the edges, 10 to 15 minutes. 5. Remove
and discard the cinnamon and stir in the remaining
1/4 teaspoon turmeric and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne. Add
the tomatoes and tomato paste and cook, stirring, 5
minutes. Transfer to a food processor or blender
and puree until smooth; set aside.
6. Heat the
remaining 1 tablespoon oil in the same pan over medium-high
heat. Add the chicken and cook, stirring, 2 minutes.
7. Add the yogurt,
1 tablespoon at a time and stirring well after each
addition. Cook, stirring, 2 minutes to evaporate
some of the moisture.
7. Add the pureed
tomato mixture and bring to a boil. Stir in the
water. Return to a boil, then reduce the heat
and simmer, partially covered, until the chicken is
cooked through, about 30 minutes. Stir and scrape
the bottom of the pan every 5 to 8 minutes to keep
the sauce from sticking. Then uncover and cook
5 more minutes to reduce and thicken the sauce. Stir
in the cilantro and lemon juice. Taste for salt
and serve hot.
Click here to
read the contents of the chapter on poultry. |
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Lamb
Curry with Coriander, Garam Masala and Coconut
Serves 4
This is a variation on
the preceding recipe. It’s made exactly
the same way but uses a spice paste with curry
leaves and coconut in place of the spice powder
in the original recipe. Potatoes or another
vegetable can be added to this recipe as well.
SPICE PASTE
12 black peppercorns
8 green cardamom pods
5 whole cloves
16 fresh or 24 frozen curry
leaves
2 whole, dried red chiles
1 bay leaf
1/4 cup unsweetened, shredded
coconut, or 1/4 cup ground blanched almonds
2 pounds well trimmed,
boneless leg of lamb, cut into 1- to 1 1/2- inch
pieces
3 tablespoons canola oil
3 medium red onions
1 teaspoon salt, or to
taste
4 garlic cloves
2 inches fresh ginger,
peeled and cut into large chunks
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper,
or to taste
1/2 cup plain yogurt, whisked
until smooth
3 cups water
1/2 teaspoon garm masala
1/4 cup heavy cream (optional)
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1. For the spice
paste, combine all of the ingredients in a spice
grinder and grind to a paste, using a little water
if you need to. Set aside. Chop one of the
onions and cut the remaining two into large chunks.2. Heat
the oil in a large, heavy bottomed casserole over
medium-high heat. Add the chopped onion and
the salt and cook, stirring often, until the onion
just begins to brown, about 10 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, combine
the onion chunks, the garlic and ginger in a food
processor and process to a paste; set aside.
4. When the onion
has browned, add the spice paste and the lamb. Cook,
stirring often, until the lamb begins to brown,
6 to 7 minutes. (If the lamb doesn't brown,
turn up the heat.). Add the pureed onion mixture
and cook, stirring, until the mixture is dry and
the oil begins to separate, about 10 more minutes.
6. Add the coriander
and cayenne and cook, stirring, 2 more minutes.
7. Add the yogurt
a tablespoon at a time, and stirring well after
each addition. Then cook, stirring often,
until the mixture is dry again and the meat is
beginning to stick to the bottom of the pan, about
5 minutes.
8. Add the water
and garam masala, stir well, and simmer, covered,
until the lamb is tender, 35 to 40 more minutes.
9. Just before serving,
add the cream, if using, and bring almost to a
simmer. Taste for salt. Sprinkle with
cilantro and serve hot.
Click here to
read the contents of the chapter on meat.
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Mangalore
Fried Shrimp
Serves 4
This dish is from
the southern Indian coastal state of Karnataka
where seafood is an important part of the
diet. The shrimp has extraordinary
flavor. I sometimes vary the recipe
by adding 1-1/2 tablespoons unsweetened,
shredded coconut along with the mustard
seeds, or 2 to 6 chopped, small fresh green
chiles with the scallions. Serve
with Green Chutney (page 209) or lemon
wedges, Lemon Rice (page 92) and a raita.
1 pound medium shrimp,
peeled and deveined
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon ground mustard
2 teaspoons fresh lemon
juice
4 teaspoons canola oil
1/2 teaspoon black mustard
seeds
6 fresh or 10 frozen curry
leaves, torn into pieces
3 tablespoons finely chopped
scallion
Salt, to taste
1. Rinse the shrimp
and pat them dry on paper towels. Put them
in a bowl and sprinkle with the cayenne, turmeric,
ground mustard and lemon juice. Stir gently
to coat the shrimp evenly with the spices. Cover
and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
2. When the shrimp have
marinated, combine the oil, mustard seeds and curry
leaves in a large wok, frying pan or kadai over
medium-high heat. Cook, stirring, until the
mustard seeds crackle and the curry leaves brown
around the edges, 1 to 2 minutes.
3. Add the shrimp
and cook, stirring, 30 seconds, stirring often.
4. Add the scallion
and cook, stirring, until the shrimp turn pink all
over, about 1 minute. Sprinkle with salt and
serve hot.
Click here to
read the contents of the chapter on fish and
shellfish.
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Aunty
Susan's Orange Flan
Serves 6-8
I got the original version
of this recipe from my neighbor in Delhi, whom
we called Susan Aunty. (In India, all neighbors
are addressed as uncles or aunts; Susan Aunty is
a Christian from Kerala in southern India, and
so she has a Christian name.) I've embellished
her recipe with orange blossom water and cream
cheese. I cook the caramel until it's quite
dark – the slight bitterness of a darker
caramel contrasts nicely with the sweet custard.
1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed
milk
11/2 cups half and half
4 large eggs
8 ounces cream cheese
2 tablespoons orange marmalade
1/4 cup orange liqueur
1 teaspoon orange blossom water,
optional
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
Grated zest of 2 oranges
1 inch cinnamon stick
1. Preheat the oven to
350F and remove all but the bottom oven rack. Line
an 8- by 8- inch or larger baking dish with a doubled
kitchen towel.
2. Combine the sweetened
condensed milk, half and half, eggs, cream cheese,
marmalade, orange liqueur and orange flower water
in the blender and blend until smooth. Set
aside.
3. Combine the sugar,
water, orange zest and cinnamon in a medium heavy-bottomed
saucepan. Bring to a simmer and remove from
the heat. Stir until the sugar is dissolved
and the syrup is clear. Then return to the
heat and boil, swirling the pan every now and then,
until syrup caramelizes to a deep brown color,
4 to 5 more minutes. Immediately pour the
caramel into a 2 1/2-quart metal charlotte mold
and tip the mold to coat it with the caramel. Let
the mold cool a few minutes and then pour the custard
mixture into it.
4. Put the mold in the
baking dish and then put the dish into the preheated
oven. Use a measuring cup to add hot tap
water to almost fill the baking dish. Bake
until the custard is just set but still jiggles
when shaken, and a skewer stuck in about 1 inch
from the edge comes out clean, about 1 hour 25
minutes. Carefully lift the charlotte mold
out of the pan. Turn off the oven and let
the water in the baking dish cool a little before
moving it. Refrigerate the flan to chill
completely.
5. To serve, set the
charlotte mold over medium heat until the bottom
gets hot, about 1 minute. (This is to melt
the caramel so that the flan will unmold.) Run
a knife around the edge to loosen the flan. Overturn
a serving plate on top of the mold and then turn
the mold upside down on top of the plate. Remove
the mold. Cut the flan into wedges and serve.
Click here to
read the contents of the chapter on sweets.
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Indian
Fruit Punch
Makes about
2 quarts
I make this with a number
of commercial fresh fruit juices that I buy at
my supermarket. If you can’t find
these exact juices, feel free to substitute any
that you like.
2 cups fresh raspberry
juice
2 cups fresh strawberry
juice
2 cups fresh mango juice
2 cups fresh banana-mango
or other banana fruit juice
1 cup fresh orange juice
2 tablespoons grenadine
syrup
1 cup heavy cream
Combine all of the ingredients
in a 2–quart or larger plastic pitcher with
a lid and shake to combine. Chill and serve
cold.
Click here to
read the contents of the chapter on drinks.
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Cucumber
Raita
(kheere ka raita)
Serves 4-6
This is the most common
raita in India, and in America, too! Cucumbers
are particularly cooling to the palate in the
heat of the summer. As a child, I remember feeling
comforted if I could at least find a cucumber
raita on a restaurant menu—the other options
all looked too exotic!
2 1/4 cups plain yogurt
1 large cucumber, peeled
and shredded
1 fresh hot green chile,
seeded and finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon ground toasted
cumin (see sidebar, page 00)
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon salt, or to
taste
Whisk the yogurt in a bowl
until smooth and lightened. Add the shredded cucumber,
green chile, toasted cumin, and cayenne and stir.
Chill well and stir in the salt just before serving.
Click here to
read the contents of the chapter on raitas.
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Rice
Pilaf with "Standing" Spices
(Khade Masale Ke Chaawal)
Serves 6-8
My maternal grandmother,
Nani, whose family is from the Punjab in northern
India, used to make this rather special rice
pilaf whenever we and any of her other grandchildren
came to visit. It is a common Punjabi party
dish. Khade Masale which literally
means "standing spices" refers to the
whole spices that are cooked into the rice to
flavor it. In India, we wouldn’t
remove the spices from the finished dish. People
bite right into them: they enjoy the heat. If
you don’t, wrap the spices in a square
of cheesecloth as my father's mother did. Saute
the spice bundle in the oil in step 5, as usual,
but cook for 1-1/2 rather than 1 minute. Or,
just pick the spices out after the rice is cooked.
As a child, the crisp,
fried onion garnish was my favorite treat. Whenever
I smelled the onions cooking, I'd run to Panditji
who, generous man that he was, always gave me a
taste. (That said, the rice can also stand
on its own without the onions.)
2 cups basmati rice
4 1/2 cups cold water
2 medium red onions
1/4 cup canola oil, plus
about 1 cup for deep-frying
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
8 green cardamom pods
2 1/2 to 3 inches cinnamon
stick, broken in half
1/4 teaspoon whole cloves
1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns
1/4 teaspoon coriander
seeds
3 bay leaves
3 whole, dried red chiles
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon salt
1. Combine the rice
and water in a bowl and soak for 20 minutes. Drain
the rice and reserve the water separately.
2. Mince one onion
and reserve.
3. For the fried
onion garnish, thinly slice the second onion. Heat
the 1 cup oil in a small (about 6 inches in diameter),
heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat to
350F. (The oil should come about 1/2 inch
up the side of the pan. If necessary, add
more oil.) Add the sliced onion and deep fry, stirring
often, until the onion turns dark brown, 15 to
20 minutes. Drain on paper towels and then
let stand until cool and crisp. Set aside.
Discard the oil.
4. Preheat the oven
to 350F.
5. Combine the 1/4
cup oil, the cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves,
peppercorns, coriander, bay leaves and chiles in
a large, oven-proof casserole over medium-high
heat. Cook, stirring, until the cinnamon
unfurls, 1 to 2 minutes.
6. Add the reserved
minced onion and cook, stirring, until wilted,
about 5 minutes. If the caramelized sugars
from the onion begin to collect on the bottom of
the pan, add water, about a tablespoon at a time,
and stir, scraping the bottom of the pan topick
up the browned bits.
7. Add the garlic
and cook, stirring, 30 seconds.
8. Add the drained
rice and cook, stirring, 1 minute.
9. Add the reserved
soaking water and salt and bring to a boil, stirring
occasionally to keep the rice from sticking to
the bottom of the pan. Then turn the heat
down and simmer vigorously until the water is entirely
absorbed and the rice cooked through, about 10
minutes.
10. Put the casserole
in the oven and bake 10 minutes. Then remove
from the oven and let rest 5 minutes. Sprinkle
with the fried onions and serve hot.
Click here to
read the contents of the chapter on rice.
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