Praise for American
Masala
PUBLISHER'S
WEEKLY: Week of 8/6/2007
"Food & Wine"category
American Masala: 125 New Classics from My Home Kitchen
Suvir Saran with Raquel Pelzel. Clarkson
Potter, $35 (272 pages)
ISBN 978-0-307-34150-1
Although the recipes in Saran's aptly titled
second cookbook share no unifying principle apart from their
deliciousness—whoever
heard of Macaroni and Cheese keeping company with Mushroom and
Rice Biryani Casserole?—they complement one another in
a mysterious way. Such eclecticism reflects how Saran, chef and
co-owner of Dévi in New York City, cooks for his family
and enormous circle of Tupperware-toting friends. Unlike many
other chefs' signature dishes, which originate in a restaurant
kitchen, Saran's most inspired creations begin at home. When
this cooking-without-borders approach succeeds, as it mostly
does, the results taste like wild siblings of the original: bolder,
stronger, deeper. Seasonings for a delicious variation on harira,
a traditional Moroccan soup, include Aleppo pepper and garam
masala; a buttermilk brine for fried chicken is flavored with
ginger, coriander and cayenne. Indian dishes like Mashed Potatoes
with Mustard Oil, Cilantro and Onions and Bombay-Style Whole
Snapper, in which the fish is rubbed with a spice paste before
roasting, particularly stand out for their elegance and ease
of preparation. 60 color photos not seen by PW. (Oct.)
"This book is a warm, personal invitation
to make fabulous food at home, all inspired by American and
Indian favorites. How could anyone say no to vegetables so gorgeous
and so easy to make. Nothing could be healthier. These dishes
promise no fuss or drama and I love the descriptions that come
with them. I'm convinced. I can't wait to try them all."
— Marion Nestle, NYU Professor and author of Food
Politics and What to Eat
"I actually hear the voice of Suvir Saran
on every page, especially in the intimate recipe footnotes as
he reimagines everyday favorite dishes of the American melting
pot in his own kitchen, intensifying flavors with the fragrant
spices of India. Buy this book for the secret of his rich-as-Croesus
macaroni and cheese, the crispy okra salad and, yes, the irresistible
skillet cornbread borrowed from an America grandma. "
— Gael Greene, New York magazine critic and
author of Insatiable: Tales from a Life of Delicious Excess
"Suvir Saran's American
Masala is an exciting
addition to American cooking. These recipes are simple without
being simplistic and bring the vibrant traditions of Indian seasoning
and spice to the increasingly diverse American repertoire. Perhaps
most important, this book is filled with Saran's huge and generous
spirit."
— Michael Ruhlman, author, The Soul of a Chef
"Suvir is a beautiful cook! He brings
passion, broad knowledge, and sensibility in equal measures to
these wonderful dishes, sharing a home cooking style that is both
personal and classic. I love his food and can't wait to try these
recipes!"
— Mollie Katzen, author, Moosewood Cookbook
"I have cooked Suvir's recipes probably fifty
times, never without delightful, fresh, inspiring results. When
it comes to contemporary and traditional food, I trust him implicitly. American
Masala is a gem."
— Mark Bittman, author, How to Cook Everything
and The Best Recipes in the World
"In the exciting world of food there is only
one chef who holds court as the leading authority on contemporary
Indian cooking: Suvir Saran. To cook this talented culinarian’s
recipes is to get a firsthand understanding and taste of American
multicultural food."
—Art Smith, author and James Beard Humanitarian of the Year
"Suvir Saran's American
Masala is an exhilarating
culinary journey. From Cardamom Roasted Cauliflower to sumptuous
Crab and Salmon Cakes with a Spicy Cilantro Aïoli, Suvir’s
love affair with amazing flavors is evident in every recipe.
My own personal favorites will always be his Spiced Pear
and Better-than-Ketchup Tomato Chutneys, but I adore his
pickles, too!"
— Sheila Lukins, co-author, The Silver Palate
Cookbook
In his new book American Masala, Suvir Saran gives
a zing to a spicylicious and culturally diverse array of recipes."
— Nancy Silverton, chef and author
"Place several cups of India in a beautiful
big bowl. Add a slice or two of America, a dash of brilliance,
a pinch of wit and blend it all together. You’ll end up
with one of the most inspiring and sumptuous cookbooks that’s
come out in a long time! Once again, Suvir Saran, the consummate
Indian chef, has triumphed with his new cookbook. The next best
thing to buying a ticket to India (or New York to eat at his fabulous
restaurant) Is right here between these covers."
— Joanne Weir, chef and author
"I love Suvir’s fresh and modern approach
to the Indian kitchen. American Masala is packed with
Dishes that are easy to prepare, alive with flavor and sure
to delight. Always eager to learn, my repertoire just got upgraded
big time. P.S. The crispy okra salad is über-delicious!
— Colin Cowie, author and TV Host
Excerpts
from the introduction
Masala is the Hindi term for spice. Besides meaning the spice that one adds to food, it also refers to the spice of life, the excitement and vibrancy that blossom from stimulating conversation and a house full of friends and family. All of the things that make life interesting—all of the things that inspire--this is masala. I have lived in America for nearly as long as I lived in India and have come to love American classics like lasagna, cornbread and cobblers. They are now as much a part of my culinary heritage as is dal and dosas. Applying my knowledge of spices to American dishes is what I like to call American Masala. It's my reality and it's how I cook at home.
As a chef and cook, I find inspiration everywhere, from the countries I visit, the people I meet and the food I taste along the way. I have found that the beauty of masala lies in its ability to transpose borders and oceans, and find a home in just about any cuisine, not just Indian. The dishes I cook tend to take on an international theme, reflecting the background and traditions of the places I've seen and the people I know. I create food that I love to eat, food that I find stimulating and satisfying, and that gets people talking. It's often not traditional Indian food that I am cooking, though there are certainly Indian influences, as these aspects of cooking seem to be genetically juxtaposed into my genes.
• • • • • • •
|
Pictured here: spinach, ginger,
and red chiles |
I do not pretend to have compiled a collection of "classic" Indian recipes. There are several excellent examples of such on the market, published by writers to whom I am indebted for doing the hard work of bringing a foreign cuisine to America at a time when even French food was still exotic here. Those writers have written extensively about our Indian culture, foods, ingredients and techniques. You can read and cook out of those books to get a taste of classical northern Indian dishes such as Roghan Josh, a lamb stew thickened with ground almonds, or the northern Indian chicken dishes Murgh Mussallam (a whole chicken, marinated then stewed) and Chicken Moghlai (chicken in a rich, saffron flavored sauce). While delicious, these dishes require days of marinating and use ingredients that are exotic even to contemporary Indian pantries. This is not the kind of everyday cooking that makes sense for a busy schedule.
• • • • • • •
Like you, I rely mostly on supermarket staples. I always have tomatoes, red peppers, red onions, cilantro, ginger, lemons and limes in my refrigerator as most of these ingredients usually migrate into my cooking. I also use kosher salt because I find it easier to control and sprinkle in by hand than table salt. Cayenne pepper, jalapeño peppers and chile peppers are like my black pepper--I use these spices often and you can decrease (or increase!) their quantities as you like. I don't expect other home cooks to go searching high and low for specialty ingredients. That said, there are a couple of ingredients that are nice to have on hand, like fenugreek leaves, curry leaves (you can store them in your freezer) and spice mixes like chaat masala, garam masala and sambhaar that stay fresh for up to six months. I provide recipes for the latter two spice blends. Fenugreek leaves and chaat masala can be found in most any Indian supermarket, or simply order from one of the sources in the back of the book on page TK. In just five minutes online or on the phone, you can have these items sent to you and never worry about not having an ingredient in your pantry. If you can't find or don't have a seasoning, don't stress it--eliminate it from the recipe. This is what cooking is about, flexibility and improvisation. Maybe you will come up with a dish even better than mine.
• • • • • • •
|
Pictured here: radishes and onions. |
To me, American cuisine represents a culture of food that blends spices, techniques and ingredients from different parts of the globe to become something fresh and exciting yet comforting and homey. It is a melting pot of fast-paced and slow-cooked, of convenience and tradition. It is about being free to play with new flavors and ideas.
Just as there is a sense of inherent freedom that comes from being an American, I find an innate awareness in the freedom that comes from being Indian. Having grown up in a country that is as old as time, as old as history yet still as young and fearless as a forward-moving nation can be, has given me a unique perspective on life. I never take anything for granted, or base my opinion solely on science or theory. This is to live without masala. Sometimes it's evident as an underlying note--perhaps the soft spice of black pepper in a fruit cobbler. Sometimes it's as powerful as adding saffron to leg of lamb. And sometimes it's as simple as gently warming rosemary and thyme in olive oil before adding to a sauce to coax out the herbs' dormant underlying notes.
This is not a restaurant-y or Indian cookbook. I wrote American Masala keeping in mind how I really cook in my kitchen and have taken care to write about the shortcuts and time saving tips I employ. My friends are often amazed at how frequently I entertain a dozen (or more) people in my tiny one bedroom Manhattan apartment. With no formal dining room to speak of, and a cooking space that most non New Yorkers would consider a closet, they are shocked when they witness and taste the breadth and variety of dishes that parade out from the kitchen. I prepare them with love and care and without fuss. My goal is to enjoy my time in the kitchen, cooking with the most beautiful, seasonal and delicious ingredients I can find. I hope you find as much gratification from the recipes on the pages that follow as I do.
• • • • • • •
CHAPTERS
Chutneys, Pickles & Spices
Snacks & Starters
Salads
Soups & Stews
Casseroles & One-Dish Dinners
Fish & Shellfish
Chicken & Turkey
Pork, Lamb & Beef
Vegetables & Side Dishes
Grilling
Breakfasts
Desserts
Recipes with photos.
Book jacket flaps:
Back to the top.
Photos by Ben Fink.
